The Cleaver
Peak · 10,961 ft · Yosemite corridor
The Cleaver is a 10,961-foot peak in the Yosemite corridor of the Sierra Nevada, known for exposure to strong afternoon winds and avalanche terrain that demands winter caution.
Wind accelerates from calm mornings to sustained gusts by early afternoon, regularly reaching the mid-30s mph. The peak sits above treeline on exposed ridge; afternoon cloud build and wind are the rule, not the exception. Head here before 11 a.m. if you want sheltered conditions.
Over the last 30 days, The Cleaver averaged 15 mph wind and a NoGo Score of 34, with gusts to 42 mph and temperatures holding near 21°F. The week ahead will track the seasonal spring pattern: lighter winds early in the day, increasing instability and crowding as the snowpack softens. Check avalanche bulletin for slab and wet-slab risk before any approach.
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About The Cleaver
The Cleaver sits at 10,961 feet in the high Sierra directly east of Yosemite's central corridor. Access is primarily from Highway 120 via Tioga Pass; the nearest gateway is Lee Vining on the east side, about 45 minutes away. Winter and early spring route-finding is technical; approach only with solid winter mountaineering skills and a clear view of the snowpack. The peak is above treeline and fully exposed to westerly flow off the Pacific.
Winter through mid-spring is the active season here. The rolling 30-day average wind of 15 mph masks the real pattern: mornings are often calm or gentle, then afternoon thermals and pressure systems push sustained gusts into the 30-40 mph range. Temperatures average 21°F over the last month but swing from 7°F minimum to 34°F maximum across the year. Crowding averages a low 3 out of 10, reflecting the peak's technical approach and avalanche exposure. Late snowpack (May through June) softens daily; plan ascents for dawn to mid-morning.
The Cleaver suits experienced winter mountaineers and ski mountaineers comfortable with exposed ridges, rockfall, and avalanche terrain. Afternoon wind makes rope work and exposed traverses untenable after 11 a.m. Parking at Tioga Pass is limited and fills on weekends during spring access windows. Carry current SAC avalanche forecasts; wet-slab instability is common as snowpack consolidates in late morning. Route-finding in white-out conditions is often a guessing game at this elevation. Solo travel or small parties are safer here than large groups.
Nearby peaks in the Yosemite corridor include Mount Dana (13,053 ft) to the south and the Cathedral Range to the west; both are higher and draw more traffic but offer similar alpine exposure. Mount Conness (12,590 ft) and White Mountain (14,242 ft) provide alternative ridge routes with less avalanche terrain. For lower-elevation spring climbing, consider the Tioga Lake region or Mono Basin approach peaks, which warm sooner and have less persistent snowpack.